Join me as I blog my way through April - A to Z!
This month, you'll learn about those funny little
sewing terms...as defined by Seams Inspired.
My number keeps changing. Today, I'm #1232 in the Challenge. To meet the others,
click the badge above or follow this link: A to Z 2012
Cap Contour / Underlining
Cap Contour is that pretty rounded shape created when the sleeve is sewn to the armscye. You've done all that blocking and your sleeve cap still won't hold its form, or contour. It keeps collapsing. This is usually the case when sewing with softer fabrics. To maintain the Cap Contour, a Cap Underlining must be stitched into the sleeve cap.
The Cap Underlining is traditionally made with lamb's wool padding; however, you can use flannel, muslin, or any other soft (cause it's next to your skin) fabric that will hold its shape when blocked. The Cap Underlining is a small strip of fabric that is cut using the top 3-inches of the sleeve pattern as a guide. The strip is hand-stitched to armhole seam.
When you need a little 'oomph' and structure to your sleeve, but don't want to use a shoulder pad, the Cap Underlining can be used instead. This little sewing trick will give your sleeves a very nice Cap Contour.
Have you heard of Cap Contour / Underlining?